Why measure before you call
Gutters are priced by the linear foot, plus downspouts, corners and extras. If you know roughly how many feet you need, you can check whether quotes are in a reasonable range, compare installers on the same scope and spot a quote that is far too high or suspiciously low. The installer will still measure precisely; your numbers are a sanity check.
Step 1: Sketch the roof from above
Draw the outline of your house as seen from above, then mark every roof edge where water runs off. On a simple gable roof, water runs off the two long sides only. On a hip roof, it runs off all four sides. Porches, bay windows, garages and additions often have their own small roofs. A satellite view in any map app helps.
Mark each edge that needs a gutter. Edges above entries, walkways, patios and the side of the house where water pools usually matter most.
Step 2: Measure the gutter runs
Measure along the ground directly below each roof edge, from corner to corner. The roof overhang adds a little at each end, so round up. Add all the runs together for the total linear feet. As a rough guide, many single-story homes need about 120 to 180 feet of gutter, and larger two-story homes with hip roofs can need 200 feet or more.
Also count the corners (inside and outside), because each one adds parts and labor.
Step 3: Plan the downspouts
A common rule of thumb is one downspout for every 30 to 40 feet of gutter. For long runs, the gutter is often sloped from the middle toward a downspout at each end. Add downspouts near roof valleys, where water concentrates.
Then estimate downspout length: roughly the height from the gutter to the ground. A one-story downspout is often about 10 feet, a two-story one about 18 to 20 feet. Add extensions or underground lines if water must be carried away from the foundation. See downspouts and drainage.
Step 4: Check the slope and size
Gutters need a slight fall toward each downspout. A common guideline is about 1/4 inch per 10 feet of gutter. On a long run, that affects where downspouts go. Size depends on roof area, pitch and local rainfall: most homes use 5-inch or 6-inch gutters. Our guide to 5-inch vs. 6-inch gutters explains when to upgrade.
Step 5: Turn it into a budget
| Project | Published range |
|---|---|
| Seamless aluminum gutters per linear foot, installed, national (HomeGuide) | $6 – $12 |
| Upgrade from 5-inch to 6-inch gutters (HomeGuide) | about $1 – $2 more per foot |
| Downspouts per linear foot, installed (HomeGuide) | about $2 – $4 |
| Gutter guards per linear foot, installed, national (Angi) | about $6 – $13 |
Published figures for orientation only, not quotes.
Example: a two-story home with 180 feet of gutter and six downspouts of about 20 feet each (120 feet):
- 180 feet of seamless aluminum at $6 to $12: about $1,080 to $2,160
- Upgrade to 6-inch at $1 to $2 more per foot: about $180 to $360
- 120 feet of downspouts at $2 to $4: about $240 to $480
- Micro-mesh guards on 180 feet at $6 to $13: about $1,080 to $2,340
That gives roughly $1,500 to $3,000 for 6-inch seamless gutters with downspouts, and about $2,600 to $5,300 with guards. Removal of old gutters, fascia repairs and underground drain lines come on top. Local prices differ; see the cost tables on our city pages, for example Houston, Chicago or Orlando.
Measuring a complex roof
Homes with many roof sections take a little more care. Treat each roof edge as its own run: main house, garage, porch, bay window and additions. Where a lower roof sits below a higher one, the upper roof may drain onto the lower roof and then into a lower gutter, so the lower gutter carries more water. Note roof valleys, where two slopes meet, and mark them on your sketch; they often need a downspout nearby or a larger gutter.
Also note where gutters end against walls or chimneys, and any spots where water already pools or splashes. A photo of each side of the house during rain is worth more than any calculation.
Common estimating mistakes
- Forgetting porch, garage and addition roofs
- Counting downspouts but not their length on two-story walls
- Ignoring extensions and underground lines at the bottom
- Assuming the old gutter size is right when the old gutters overflowed
- Leaving out removal of the old gutters and fascia repair
A quick worked sketch
Picture a simple two-story colonial with a gable roof. Water runs off the front and back only: two runs of about 45 feet each, 90 feet in total. Add a one-story garage wing with 25 feet of gutter on each side, and a small entry roof with 8 feet. That is about 148 feet in all. With one downspout per 30 to 40 feet, the house needs around five downspouts: two at the ends of each long run and one on the garage, plus one for the entry roof.
What else affects the price
- Stories and access: tall walls, steep roofs and tight side yards take more time.
- Removal: taking down and disposing of old gutters.
- Fascia: rotten boards must be replaced before new gutters go up.
- Material and profile: steel, copper and half-round cost more than aluminum K-style. See gutter materials compared.
- Color: standard colors are usually included; special colors can cost more.
What to tell the installer when you call
- Number of stories and roof type (gable, hip, flat sections)
- Your estimate of total linear feet and the number of downspouts
- Whether old gutters need to come off
- Any known fascia damage
- Whether you want guards, and what trees are near the roof
- Any HOA or historic district rules
With that information, you can compare quotes on the same scope. Ready to get prices? One call connects you with an independent installer who serves your ZIP code.