Start with the same scope
Quotes are only comparable when they cover the same work. Before you get quotes, decide roughly what you want: full replacement or partial, gutter size, guards or not, and any downspout changes. Give every installer the same information, and ask each to quote the same options. If one installer recommends something different, such as 6-inch instead of 5-inch, ask them to quote both so you can compare. HomeGuide puts seamless aluminum gutters at about $6 to $12 per linear foot installed nationally, but the total depends on everything below.
Line by line
1. Gutter size and profile
5-inch or 6-inch K-style, or half-round? A 6-inch gutter holds substantially more water and costs more per foot. On large roofs and in heavy-rain areas, it may be worth it. See 5-inch vs. 6-inch gutters.
2. Material and thickness
Aluminum, steel, copper or zinc, and what thickness? For aluminum, .027 and .032 inch are common; thicker resists dents better. If a quote does not list thickness, ask. See aluminum vs. steel vs. copper gutters.
3. Linear feet
Check that each quote measures roughly the same total length. Big differences mean one installer missed a section or included one the other did not, such as a porch or garage. See how to measure for gutters.
4. Hangers
Hidden hangers screwed into the fascia are standard on seamless gutters. Ask about spacing: closer spacing supports snow, ice and heavy rain better. A quote that lists spacing shows the installer has thought about it. See gutter hangers explained.
5. Downspouts
How many, what size (2x3 or 3x4 inch), where, and how far do they discharge? A quote with fewer downspouts may be cheaper but overflow more. Upgrading to 3x4-inch downspouts is often one of the best values. See downspout size and placement.
6. Discharge
Do the quotes include extensions, splash blocks or buried lines? Where will the water go? Buried drainage can add significant cost, so make sure it is either in both quotes or in neither. See underground downspout drainage.
7. Corners, outlets and seams
How are miters made and sealed? Are outlets riveted and sealed from the inside? These details are hard to see in a quote but worth asking about. See gutter parts explained.
8. Guards
If guards are included, what type and brand, and are they fastened down? Guard prices vary widely by type. Make sure both quotes include the same kind, or compare them separately. See are gutter guards worth it?
9. Removal and disposal
Is removal and haul-away of the old system included? Most installers include it, but confirm. See what happens to your old gutters.
10. Fascia and wood repair
Rotted fascia is common and often discovered only when the old gutters come off. A good quote gives a price per foot or per board for repairs. A quote with no mention of repairs is not necessarily cheaper; it may simply move the cost to a change order. See fascia repair before new gutters.
11. Drip edge
Is drip edge or gutter apron included where missing? See drip edge and gutter apron.
12. Color
Standard colors are usually included; custom colors or copper may cost more. See how to choose gutter color.
13. Permits and approvals
If a permit or HOA approval is needed, who handles it? See gutter permits and HOA rules.
14. Warranty
Compare both the material warranty from the manufacturer and the workmanship warranty from the installer. A long material warranty on the coil means little if the installer only guarantees the work for one year. See gutter warranties explained.
15. Schedule and payment
When can they start, how long will it take, and when is payment due? A large up-front deposit is a warning sign. See paying for new gutters and the best time of year to install gutters.
A simple comparison table
Make a table with one column per quote and one row for each item above. Fill in what each quote says, and mark anything missing. Then call each installer with your questions. The gaps often explain most of the price difference.
Beyond the paper
- License and insurance: check the installer’s state license or registration where required, and ask for a certificate of insurance sent by the insurer. Our state pages explain the rules where we serve.
- Experience: ask how long they have installed seamless gutters and whether they have their own forming machine.
- Crew: will their own crew do the work, or a subcontractor?
- Communication: did they measure the house, look at the fascia and answer questions clearly?
See how to choose a gutter contractor.
Red flags
- A price given without measuring the house.
- Pressure to sign the same day, or a “today only” discount.
- A large cash deposit before any work.
- No written contract, or a contract that lists only a total.
- Claims that cannot be checked, such as unverified awards or certifications.
Questions to ask every installer
- What gutter size and thickness are you quoting, and why?
- How far apart will the hangers be?
- How many downspouts, what size, and where will each one discharge?
- How will you seal corners, end caps and outlets?
- How will you price fascia repairs if you find rot?
- Is removal and disposal of the old gutters included?
- What does your workmanship warranty cover, and for how long?
- When can you start, and what happens if weather delays the work?
Ask every installer the same questions and write the answers in your comparison table. Clear, specific answers are a good sign; vague ones are worth a follow-up.
When the cheapest quote is fine
Sometimes the lowest quote really is the best value: the same scope, the same materials, a solid installer with lower overhead. After lining up the details, if everything matches, price is a fair deciding factor.
Upper roofs and special cases
If your home has upper roofs that drain onto lower ones, ask each installer how they will route those downspouts; answers vary widely. See upper-roof downspouts onto lower roofs.