How old gutters come off
Removal is usually the first step on installation day. The crew disconnects downspouts, cuts or unscrews the hangers, and lowers each section of gutter to the ground. Older systems held with spikes and ferrules are pried off; the spikes leave holes in the fascia that must be filled or covered. Hidden hangers are unscrewed. Sealed seams and corners may be cut apart so long sections can be handled safely. On tall homes and steep lots, sections are lowered by rope or carried down ladders rather than dropped, to protect landscaping, siding and people below. See what happens on gutter installation day.
Removing old gutters yourself to save money is rarely worth the risk. Long sections are awkward, sharp and heavy when full of debris, and most ladder injuries happen at home. Installers usually include removal in the price. See DIY vs. professional gutter installation.
What the old gutters reveal
Once the old gutters are down, the fascia boards and the roof edge are exposed for the first time in years. This is the moment to check for:
- Rotted fascia: soft, dark or crumbling wood, often at corners and behind leaking seams. Rotted boards should be replaced before new gutters go up, because new hangers need solid wood. See fascia repair before new gutters.
- Missing or damaged drip edge: without drip edge, water can run behind the gutter and down the fascia. See drip edge and gutter apron.
- Damaged roof sheathing at the eave: long-term overflow and ice dams can rot the edge of the roof deck.
- Pest activity: wasps, birds and rodents often nest behind old gutters, and carpenter ants and termites follow wet wood. See gutters and pests.
- Paint condition: peeling paint on old fascia may contain lead in homes built before 1978, which affects how it should be scraped or covered.
A good installer will show you what they find and price any repairs before doing them. That is why many contracts include a per-foot price for fascia replacement: nobody knows exactly how much is needed until the old gutters are off.
Who hauls them away
Most professional installers remove and haul away old gutters, downspouts, hangers and debris as part of the job. Confirm it in writing. The contract should say:
- that removal and disposal of the old system are included;
- that the work area, including flower beds and gutters on lower roofs, will be cleaned up, with nails and screws picked up by magnet;
- whether any old parts you want to keep, such as copper downspouts, decorative leader heads or historic brackets, will be set aside for you.
If you are replacing gutters yourself, many cities do not accept long metal sections in household trash or bulk pickup. A scrap-metal recycler or a local transfer station is usually the right place for them.
Recycling by material
Aluminum
Most gutters removed today are aluminum, and aluminum is one of the most recycled materials in construction. The Aluminum Association notes that aluminum can be recycled repeatedly, that recycled aluminum takes about 95 percent less energy to produce than new aluminum, and that about 75 percent of all aluminum ever produced is still in use today. The International Aluminium Institute estimates that of roughly 1.6 billion tonnes of primary aluminum produced globally since 1888, about 1.2 billion tonnes are still in use. Because scrap aluminum has value, many installers take old gutters to a scrap yard rather than a landfill.
Copper
Copper gutters and downspouts are valuable as scrap. If you are replacing copper with copper, the old material may offset some cost; if you are replacing copper with another material on a historic home, check first whether the change needs approval. See gutters on historic homes and gutter permits and HOA rules.
Galvanized steel
Steel gutters are accepted by most scrap-metal recyclers, though they are worth less than aluminum or copper. Old steel gutters are often rusted through at seams and outlets.
Vinyl
Vinyl gutters are harder to recycle. Some local programs accept rigid PVC, but many do not, and old vinyl often ends up in the landfill. If you are moving from vinyl to aluminum, that is one more reason the new system should be built to last. See aluminum vs. steel vs. copper gutters.
Wood
Wood gutters, mostly on older homes, are often rotted by the time they are replaced. Painted wood from older homes may contain lead paint and should not be burned. Before removing wood or built-in gutters, consider whether they can be repaired; see box gutters on old homes.
Reusing parts
New seamless gutters are formed on site to fit the house, so old sections are rarely reused. Old downspouts are usually replaced too, because their size should match the new system and they are often dented. Decorative items such as copper leader heads, rain chains or historic brackets may be worth reinstalling. Ask the installer before work starts so those parts are removed carefully. See seamless vs. sectional gutters.
Gutters on outbuildings
If old gutters are coming off the house, consider the garage, shed and porch at the same time. A single visit for removal and installation usually costs less than separate jobs. See gutters for garages, sheds and outbuildings.
Questions to ask the installer
- Is removal and disposal of the old gutters included in the price?
- How will you protect landscaping, siding and lower roofs during removal?
- How will fascia repairs be priced if you find rot?
- Will you recycle the old metal?
- Can you set aside any parts I want to keep?
- How will you clean up nails, screws and debris afterward?
Removal takes little time, but it is where hidden problems surface. Planning for it keeps the project on budget. For the best season to schedule the work, see the best time of year to install gutters, and for roof features that concentrate water, see chimney crickets and gutters.