Before the crew arrives
- Clear access around the house: move cars, grills, patio furniture, planters and anything under the eaves.
- Tell the installer about sprinkler heads, buried lines, landscape lighting, pets and sensitive plants near the walls.
- Confirm the details in writing: gutter size and gauge, color, number and size of downspouts, where each downspout goes, guards, fascia repair terms and cleanup.
- Ask about power: crews may use an outdoor outlet for tools.
- Plan for noise: ladders, drills and the gutter machine are loud.
Step 1: Walk-around
The crew lead usually walks the house with you to confirm downspout locations, check the roof edge and point out anything unexpected. This is the moment to raise questions about drainage, colors or extras.
Step 2: Removing old gutters
Old gutters, hangers and spikes come down and are hauled away. This often reveals problems hidden behind the gutter: rotten fascia, missing drip edge, old spike holes and stains. A good crew shows you any damage before fixing it, especially if repairs are priced separately. See fascia repair before new gutters.
Step 3: Fascia and roof edge
Damaged fascia boards are replaced, and flashing may be added. If water has been running behind the old gutters, a gutter apron or drip edge extension may be recommended. See drip edge and gutter apron explained.
Step 4: Measuring and snapping the slope line
Each run is measured, and a chalk line is snapped on the fascia to set the slope toward the downspouts. A common rule is about 1/4 inch of fall per 10 feet, which drains well without looking crooked. Long runs are often sloped from the middle toward downspouts at both ends. See how to measure for gutters.
Step 5: Forming seamless gutters on site
For seamless gutters, a truck-mounted machine forms each run from a coil of aluminum (or steel or copper) to the exact length of the wall. You will see long pieces coming out of the machine in the driveway. Sectional gutters come in pieces and are joined on the house. See seamless vs. sectional.
Step 6: End caps, miters and outlets
End caps are crimped and sealed, corners (miters) are cut and joined, and holes are cut for downspout outlets. Outlets should sit at the low points of each run, near valleys and corners where water collects. See downspout size and placement.
Step 7: Hanging the gutters
Hidden hangers are fastened inside the gutter, and each run is lifted into place and screwed through the fascia, ideally into the rafter tails. Hangers are typically spaced no more than about 2 to 3 feet apart, closer in snow country and high-wind areas. The back of the gutter should sit under the drip edge or apron so water lands inside. See gutter hangers explained.
Step 8: Downspouts
Downspouts are assembled with elbows, fastened to the wall with straps at each joint, and connected to extensions, splash blocks or underground lines. The goal is water discharged well away from the foundation, at least 5 feet in most cases. See downspouts and your foundation.
Step 9: Guards (if included)
Gutter guards are installed after the gutters are hung. Screw-down guards are fastened to the gutter lip; others slide under the drip edge. Ask how they are attached and whether they affect the roof edge. See are gutter guards worth it?
Step 10: Water test and cleanup
A good crew runs water through each run with a hose to check the slope and look for leaks at seams and corners. Then the site is cleaned: old material, scraps, screws and aluminum shavings picked up (a magnetic sweep catches steel screws but not aluminum, so a visual check matters too).
Your final check
- Gutters look straight from the street, with a gentle, consistent slope
- No gaps between gutter and fascia, and the back of the gutter sits under the roof edge flashing
- Corners and end caps sealed neatly, no visible sealant smears
- Downspouts plumb and strapped, extensions in place and draining away
- No standing water after the water test
- No damage to shingles, siding, plants or lawn
- Warranty paperwork and any fascia repair invoice received
Take photos when the job is done; they help with warranty claims and future maintenance. See gutter warranties explained.
Common surprises
- Rotten fascia behind the old gutters, which is the most common extra. Agree on the price per board or per foot in advance.
- Missing drip edge, which may call for a gutter apron.
- Buried downspout lines that are clogged or collapsed; the crew may recommend clearing or replacing them.
- Wasp nests in old gutters or behind downspouts, especially in late summer.
- Electrical or cable lines close to the roof edge, which may need care or rerouting by the utility.
A good crew stops and asks before doing extra work that changes the price. If you cannot be home, agree on how the crew will reach you.
After the installation
Watch the new gutters in the first real rain. Look for drips at corners and end caps, water running behind the gutter, overflow at the front and puddles at downspout outlets. Most problems show up in the first few storms and are usually quick fixes under the installer’s workmanship warranty. Keep guards and gutters clear, check downspout extensions after mowing, and look at the system each spring and fall.
How long it takes
A typical single-family home with 150 to 200 feet of gutters often takes one day. Large or tall homes, steep roofs, extensive fascia repair, copper or half-round systems and underground drainage can take longer. Weather can delay the start; crews usually do not work in heavy rain or high wind.
Questions worth asking on the day
- Where exactly will each downspout go, and where will the water discharge?
- How far apart will the hangers be, and are they screwed into rafter tails?
- What gauge is the coil being used?
- Will you water-test every run before you leave?
- Who do I call if something leaks in the first storm?
What it costs
HomeGuide puts seamless aluminum gutters at about $6 to $12 per linear foot installed nationally, with downspouts at about $2 to $4 per foot. Fascia repair, guards and underground drainage are usually priced separately. See our cost guide.