What happens to gutters during a roof replacement
Gutters hang directly below the roof edge, and the drip edge, the metal flashing that directs water into the gutter, sits under the first row of shingles. During a tear-off, roofers often have to loosen or remove the gutters to replace the drip edge and underlayment properly. Even when gutters stay up, ladders, falling debris and foot traffic can bend them.
Old gutters that come down rarely go back up as well as they came off. Spikes pull out of the fascia, seams open, and dented sections no longer hold a clean slope. Many homeowners end up paying to reinstall tired gutters and then replace them a few years later anyway.
When to replace gutters with the roof
- The gutters are 15 to 20 years old or more. Aluminum gutters typically last 20 years or more, so if your roof is at the end of its life, the gutters are often close too.
- They leak at the seams or sag. See signs you need new gutters.
- Storm damage. After hail or wind, dented or bent gutters are often part of the same insurance claim as the roof. See hail-damaged gutters.
- They are the wrong size. If they overflow in heavy rain, this is the time to upgrade to 6-inch gutters and bigger downspouts.
- The fascia is rotten. A roof project exposes the fascia; replace damaged boards before new gutters go up.
- You are changing the roof type. Metal roofs shed water and snow much faster than shingles and often need larger gutters, snow guards or both.
When keeping the old gutters is fine
If your gutters are relatively new seamless aluminum, correctly sized, firmly attached with hidden hangers and undamaged, there is no need to replace them. Ask the roofer to protect them, or to remove and reinstall them carefully if the drip edge requires it, and agree on who is responsible if they get damaged.
The right order: roof first, gutters second
New gutters go up after the new roof, not before. The sequence usually looks like this:
- Old gutters are removed (by the roofer or the gutter installer, agree in advance).
- Roofers tear off the old roof, repair the decking and install underlayment, drip edge and new roofing.
- Fascia boards are checked and repaired.
- The gutter installer measures the finished roof edge and hangs new seamless gutters, set correctly relative to the new drip edge.
- Downspouts, extensions and guards go on.
Scheduling the gutter installer right after the roofers finish avoids weeks without gutters, when every rainstorm dumps water at the foundation.
Roofer or separate gutter installer?
Many roofing companies offer gutters, either with their own crews or through a gutter subcontractor. Others leave gutters to you. Both can work. Ask:
- Who removes and disposes of the old gutters?
- Who is responsible for fascia repair, and how is it priced?
- Will the gutter quote list size, gauge, hanger type and spacing, downspouts and guards?
- Who warranties the drip-edge-to-gutter connection if water gets behind the gutter?
Getting a separate quote from a dedicated gutter installer is a good way to check the price and scope in the roofer’s bundle.
Drip edge and gutter placement
A roof replacement is the moment to get the roof edge right. The drip edge should overhang into the gutter so water drops into the channel instead of running behind it onto the fascia. The gutter itself is set slightly below the roof plane, so snow and ice can slide past rather than tear it off, and with a slight slope toward each downspout. When the roofer and gutter installer are different companies, agree on who sets the drip edge and check it before the gutters go up.
Insurance claims that cover both
After hail or wind damage, roofs and gutters are often part of the same claim. Document damage to both before any work starts, and make sure the adjuster sees the gutters and downspouts, not only the shingles. If the claim includes gutters, the replacement is a good time to upgrade size, gauge or guards at your own cost, as long as the paperwork shows clearly what the insurer pays for and what you add.
Permits and paperwork
Many cities require a permit for a full re-roof. Fort Worth’s Development Services roofing FAQ, for example, explains when roof work needs a permit, and gutters installed as part of a re-roof are usually covered by that project. Chicago, by contrast, lists re-roofing of pitched roofs on residential buildings up to four stories among the work that does not need a building permit. Rules vary, so ask your roofer who pulls any permit. In historic districts, changing gutter style or material may need approval.
After a storm, remember the Texas Department of Insurance’s warnings about storm chasers, which apply everywhere: check out contractors yourself, get written estimates and never sign over an insurance check before the work is done.
A quick checklist before the roofers arrive
- Decide whether the gutters stay, come off and go back up, or get replaced.
- Get the gutter quote before the roof starts, so the installer can be scheduled for the day the roofers finish.
- Agree on who handles fascia repairs and how they are priced.
- Make sure the new drip edge is compatible with the gutter size you choose.
- Plan temporary drainage if there will be days without gutters.
What it costs to add gutters to a roof project
| Project | Published range |
|---|---|
| Seamless aluminum gutters per linear foot, installed, national (HomeGuide) | $6 – $12 |
| Upgrade from 5-inch to 6-inch gutters (HomeGuide) | about $1 – $2 more per foot |
| Downspouts per linear foot, installed (HomeGuide) | about $2 – $4 |
| Gutter guards per linear foot, installed, national (Angi) | about $6 – $13 |
Published figures for orientation only, not quotes.
See local prices for Houston, Dallas, Tampa Bay and other cities on our service area pages.