Water is the log home’s enemy
Rot in log homes almost always starts where logs stay wet: the lower courses near the ground, log ends that stick out past the walls, the area around decks, and the underside of exposed rafters at the eaves. Log home maintenance guides, such as those published by LogHome.com, point to gutters, overhangs and drainage as basic defenses: gutters control runoff and protect windows, doors and logs, and downspouts should drain well away from the foundation.
Splash-back
One of the most common problems is splash-back. Water dripping off the roof hits a deck, patio or the ground and splashes back onto the lower logs. Wind also blows roof runoff onto the walls. Without gutters, the bottom courses of a log home get wet in every storm and may never fully dry in shade. Gutters stop most of this; gravel strips along the foundation help where water still falls.
Overhangs and gutters together
Generous roof overhangs are the first line of defense, and many log home guides recommend wide eaves, roughly 24 inches on one-story and 36 inches on two-story homes, to keep water off walls. Gutters work together with overhangs: the overhang keeps rain off the wall, and the gutter keeps roof water from falling to the ground right next to it. On homes with short overhangs, gutters matter even more.
Attaching gutters to log homes
- Fascia boards: many log homes have a fascia over the rafter tails; hidden hangers screw through it into the rafters.
- Exposed log rafters: where round rafter tails are exposed, a fascia board or gutter brackets fastened to the rafter ends may be needed. Fastener holes in exposed log ends should be sealed, because they let water into end grain.
- Roof straps: fastened under the roofing where there is no fascia, sealed against leaks.
- Half-round gutters on brackets suit the rustic look and hang without a flat fascia. See half-round vs. K-style.
Logs settle as they dry, especially in the first years. Gutters and downspouts fastened across settling joints need allowance for movement; downspouts strapped rigidly from roof to ground on a settling wall can bend or pull loose.
Decks and porches
Decks and porches on log homes catch roof water and splash it onto the logs. Gutters over decks prevent this; deck boards should also slope slightly away from the house and leave a gap at the wall. Downspouts should not empty onto decks. See gutters and landscaping.
Cabins in the woods
Most log homes and cabins sit among trees. Pine needles, oak leaves, seeds and twigs clog gutters quickly, and cabins are often unoccupied for weeks. Fine-mesh metal guards keep most debris out. In wildfire country, guards and gutters should be noncombustible, and debris must be cleared before fire season. See gutter guards for pine needles vs. leaves and gutters and wildfire.
Snow country
Mountain cabins see heavy snow and ice. Metal roofs, common on cabins, shed snow in sheets that tear gutters off. Snow guards, gutters set slightly lower so sliding snow passes over, and strong hangers help. Some owners in heavy snow areas skip gutters on eaves where snow slides and instead use wide overhangs and gravel drip beds. See snow load and gutters and gutters for metal roofs.
Drainage at the foundation
Log homes need dry foundations like any home, and wet sill logs rot first. Downspouts should carry water several feet away onto ground that slopes away, and grading should keep surface water off the lowest logs. On slopes, pipe water to safe outlets. See underground downspout drainage.
Materials and appearance
Copper, dark bronze or brown aluminum and galvanized steel suit the look of log homes. Copper and half-round styles add character; seamless aluminum in an earth tone is the most economical. See how to choose gutter color.
Log home finishes and gutters
Log homes are protected by stains and sealants that need periodic renewal. The lower courses and the walls under short overhangs wear out first because they get the most water. Good gutters stretch the time between refinishing on those walls, saving money on one of the biggest maintenance costs of log home ownership. When the home is refinished, check that gutters are clear and downspouts discharge away from the walls, so the new finish is not undone by splash in the first season.
Chinking, checks and water
Log walls have checks (natural cracks) and chinking or caulk joints between logs. Water running down a wall gets into upward-facing checks and behind failing chinking, which leads to rot inside the log where it is hard to see. Gutters that keep roof water off the walls reduce this, and inspecting the upper surfaces of logs near downspouts and corners for soft spots is a good habit.
Building a new log home
If you are building, plan gutters with the log package and the roof design: wide overhangs, a fascia or rafter details that accept gutter hangers, downspout locations that avoid decks and entries, and drainage that carries water away from the foundation. Adding gutters later to exposed round rafter tails is harder and leaves more holes in the wood.
Rain chains on log homes
Rain chains are popular on cabins for their rustic look. They work well on covered porches and where splash lands on gravel or a basin away from the logs, but in heavy rain and wind they splash more than downspouts. Keep them away from log walls. See rain chains vs. downspouts.
Checklist for log home gutters
- Gutters on every eave where water splashes onto logs or decks
- Sealed fastener holes in exposed log ends and rafters
- Allowance for log settling at downspout joints
- Fine-mesh guards under trees; noncombustible in fire zones
- Snow guards on metal roofs in snow country
- Downspouts discharging well away from sill logs and foundations